Fender Replacement

chas · Senior Member

Fender Replacement

Alan · Member

Hi,
I think the fendering that you have around your boat is one of the discontinued lines by Wilkes.
I have a sportsfisher of about the same vintage a few years ago and made quite a few enquires to try and replace a section. If by P rather than d you mean it looks a little bit like a 'loveheart' cut down the middle it can be made by wilkes to special order as they have, or did have 5 years ago , the tool for it.

The down side is that they would only make some ridiculous length.....I think it was about 100 metres, and far too expensive.

As regards the rest, bite the bullet, cut it off, flat the hull down with an orbital sander and spray it then bolt on a new section all in one hit otherwise it will take forever.

Alan

chas · Senior Member

Thanks Alan

Yeah you've got it, that is the shape and 100 metres would be out of the question.

The trouble is that I'm nothing like ready to do the refinishing of the hull so I guess it would be OK to just remove it by whatever means and then at least I can seal the existing holes and glass ovet them on the inside. Maybe then just run some black tape around where it used to be. Then fit new fendering straight after the hull is refinished.

Cheers and all the best

Chas

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas, In my opinion cutting off the old bolts (fendering) I would suggest to use a die grinder either air operated or electric. The cutting disks are quite small in diameter and very thin, about 1mm, so therefore you can access tight places, like bulkheads, but you have to have the patience like a dead man. Replacing the bolts is far easier than replacing the gunnel rubber, unless you know of somebody who has done it before. It is definately a two man job. If replacing the bolts, then the holes you create in the rubber, either fill them with rubber plugs or a black sikaflex. The good thing about sikaflex is that you can sand it, so there fore you can sand it back in the shape of the gunnel.

To get rid of rusty stains, use hydrochloric acid and start with 1 part acid to 4 parts water. If that doesnt do the job, then increase the mixture, but please wear protective gear including mask and goggles. First always try a spot that is not visible. You can almost see it dissapear before your eyes. Then rinse with plenty of water.

Hope this will help you.

Harold

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Sorry Chas, Taking off the old gunnel and then painting the hull would be easier, because you don't need to mask the gunnel and it would give you a cleaner look. The down side is that you might damage the hull when putting on the gunnel.

You could also contact Simon and ask him about the new gunnel design for the 36. (I believe they glue it on).

Harold

chas · Senior Member

Thanks for that information Harold!

I've looked at die grinders on the web and they seem readilly available.

Glue on sounds very good, in fact I was looking at a new lifeboat at the Souhampton Boat Show last year and couldn't see any visible sign of how the fendering was attached so that could have been glued as well. If it's good enough for a life boat, it's good enough for me!

I'll talk to Simon and report back.

Cheers and all the best

Chas

Stugsy · Veteran Member

We removed and replaced/reused the fendering on Sundance several years ago for the same reasons you have given. We used a sabre saw between the fendering and hull to cut the bolt, the punched it thro from the outside. The bolts were replaced with stainless, and the fender sikoflexed back on too. A time consuming job but reusing the fendering ment we didnt have to fill holes and redrill, or splash out on new D section.
Stu

chas · Senior Member

Cheers Stugsy, there's more food for thought!

I guess that would be a case of being a two man job; one beefy man pulling the fender away from the hull and the other cutting very carefully indeed. Maybe that combined with Harold's die grinder for getting the first one or two out until there is a good legnth of fender to pull on.

My fender is also sagging slightly between the bolts but I guess bonding it with sikaflex would help there and would seal it properly.

With the best intention in the world, that type of fendering seems a lot better at cushioning impact than resisting abraision, I've seen fairly new boats with rope burns and other scars in it so I might as well but back the stuff where I won't notice any new scars.

Yep, get it sound, get it water thght and get it finished and I could do it one section at a time as and when convenient.

By the way, I don't really think it will cause much problem when I refinish the hull as my fendering only just covers the biscuit tin type joint.

Cheers and all the best

Chas

dave p · Veteran Member

chas

did you find how much it would cost to
buy new d-rubber for your boat as i have the old rope
around mine and i wolud need the same amount as you

chas · Senior Member

HI Dave

The fendering isn't big bucks, I think about £600 total.

Type in Wilks fender into a search engine and you'll soon find it.

It's the agro of doing the job. and handling the legnths of it.

If you are interested; I'll help you do yours if you can help me do mine.

dave p · Veteran Member

what do you do with regards going around the
bow and stern quarters

chas · Senior Member

The fendering will easily bend around the bow.

The stern quarters would depand upon the radius. The fendering will bend around quite tight radii if it is heated but if the raduis is too tight I think you just use a mitered joint. and sikoflex it.

dave p · Veteran Member

hello chas

did you sort out your fendering as i was
up at portmere rubber in southampton the other day.
i got some
three quater of a inch d-rubber for my dingy and
they had all the bigger size's

dave p

chas · Senior Member

Hi Dave

I haven't done it yet but I'm now thinking along the lines of removing the old stuff, cleaning it up and refitting it with stainless bolts straight through the original holes (+/- a bit of adjustment where necessary to get it straighter) and bonding it with black Sikaflex.

I'm thinking that that will be a lot easier than glassing all the old holes up and providing I do a reasonable job, once the bolt holes are re-plugged with rubber and sanded down It will be OK. After all it is a fender it's there to take knocks and abraision to protect the hull so it is not supposed to be all new and shiny.

The only real damage to it is some severe rope cuts next to the capstan but I if can't repair it I might get some stainless steel sheet profiled up adjacent to the capstan to cover it. Having stainless sheet wrapped around the fender there is probably the correct solution anyway because I use the cleat next to the capstan for single handed docking.

Cheers

Chas

-- Edited by chas at 14:04, 2008-08-11

chas · Senior Member

Well, as it's all gone very quiet again I thought I'd give you an update on the fender replacement.

I got the first two sections off quite easily. After some discussion on this site, much thought and several coats of looking at; I tried prizing the fender away each side of the fixings with two screw drivers untill I could just get a thin cutting disc in an angle grinder between it and the gunwale - then hey presto! easy, I was able to cut through the bolts (or rather what was left of them) without even any damage to the gelcoat. It really is a two man job but we got two sections off in less than a couple of hours.

The old bolts are corroded solidly into the gunwale and I didn't have anything on the boat that was man enough to shift them but I've made up a heavy duty drift out of an old cold chisel and I'll try that next time I'm back there. If that fails, I guess I'll just have to drill them out.

I took the two sections home and they have cleaned up quite well and I've sanded the back flat or rather slightly concave with a sanding dics in an angle grinder so that should give a good bond for the sikaflex when it goes back.

As mentioned in a previous post, there are a couple of quite severe rope burns near the capstan but after studying the internet I've found a synthetic rubber compound that is used to repair conveyor belts and JCB tyres. I think it's called Elliflex but I've ordered a pack and I'll report back separately on the results.

Bearing in mind that my existing fender is a solid rubber section and has sagged very slightly between the fixings which are on approximately 200 mm centres; I was wondering is whether it would be worth drilling intermediate holes between the existing fixings and going through from the inside of the hull with number 12 or 14 self tapping screws into the fender for additional support particularly whilst the sikaflex cures. Any thoughts gents?

Cheers

Chas

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas,
Can you please make a photo of your fendering and put on some dimensions, as it would be interesting to know if I have the same. I don't know exactly the distance between the bolts on my fendering, but they are much closer than 200mm. It would be interesting to know how well the stuff youre talking about will adhere to the old rubber. I have got some rope burns too.

Must be getting a bit colder over there now? It's starting to warm up here, 28 degrees.

The starboard side is now gelcoated, but not yet detailed. Started on the deck last weekend. Now the end is in sight. Hopefully before xmas she'll go in the water.

Fancy coming to the launch? Everyone is invited!!!

Regards

Harold

chas · Senior Member

Hi Harold

Unfortunately the digital camera is US at the moment so can't post any pics.

My fender is (as well described by Alan) like a love heart cut down the middle. It is about 3 inches high, about 2 inches wide and it is a solid section. Yours looks like a double D section from a distance.

I'm waiting for my pack of compound to turn up but if you type "Eli-Flex" into a search engine you should find it. It is made by Elite Chemicals and there is a distributer in Oz.

I'll report back when I've tried it out.

Ready by Christmas eh? You are rally making me jealous now, mine is still years away. I'm just repairing big dings in the toe boards and making good the gelcoat around the gunwales whilst the fender is off. Also changing the old rusty deck hardware for stainless.

I'd love to come out for the launching ceremony (which I presume involves lots of champaign drinking) but don't think I'll be able to afford it. Likely to cost more than a new pulpit rail you know!

Please post some more pics of your boat when you get it finished.

Cheers and all the best

Chas

-- Edited by chas at 15:34, 2008-11-12

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas,

Thanks for the information on your gunnel. Interesting to see the website you recommended. Please keep us up to date on your progress.

Regards

Harold

chas · Senior Member

Hi Harold

I'll report back as soon as I've used the compound but the more immediate problem is that the old bolts that I cut through so easily are corroded in solid. So it looks like I will have to drill them out unless you have got any bright ideas. I don't even know if they go through the hull square, they could be at all sorts of jaunty angles.

The other bl00dy nuisance is that the fender was so poorly alligned when the boat was originally built that I'm likely to end up filling and glassing up quite a few of the old holes once I've got the old bolts out. I originally thought that re-using the old fender would have avoided that. Oh well!

Cheers

Chas

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas,

Have you tried getting the old bolts out with a punch and a hammer? I know you haven't got a lot of space to swing a hammer. Sometimes you just have to do things the hard way.

The local boat builder here built a coast guard vessel and used this type of fender. As you can see on photos it's an "D" shape as well as the dimensions. It looks like rubber, but it is actually plastic. The good thing is it's only $9.00 per metre, so that works out about 4quid. To give you an idea it took 2 tradespeople 5 days to put it on a ten metre boat. It's never been an easy job.The fender has an aluminium strip inside. Maybe you can buy something similar.

Regards
Harold

PS: Took the photo of the gecko on our kitchen window. These creatures are everywhere here, harmless and amazing how they have the little suction cups on their feet.

dave p · Veteran Member

hello chas

as you are changing the fender now ,there is a bloke
on www.findafishingboat.com in the miscellaneous section
selling 3" fender for £2 per foot

dave

chas · Senior Member

Hi Harold & Dave

I,ve tried a punch with an engineers hammer and I've even tried a punch made out of a modified concrete breaking cold chisel and a four pound club hammer. I did get a couple out with the latter rig!

One thing is that original fitting of my fender by Cresta Marine is pretty inaccurate (I'm sure Lochin would never done such a thing). If you compare it to the line if the hull / deck joint; it actually goes up and down like a whore's drawers. In a few places it's OK but in most places it is too high, occaisionally far too high.

So - I tried chain drilling small holes (about 4mm) around the bottom of the corroded bolts, then jiggled it about a bit to join the small holes up then belted the bolts again and hey presto, easy! Well almost, the only ones that then gave me a problem were a couple that were right next to bulkheads and had been tabbed over.

I'm going to try the repair to the rope cuts in the old fender in the next few days with that Eli- flex compound so I'll report back on that one and tell you how it worked.

We can get similar fendering to the one you showed and Dave's even found some for £2.00 per foot. Well done Gents but I want to see if I can repair the old stuff first.

I'm now trying to work out the best material to bond it back on. Sikaflex do a mastic and an adhesive (I cant remember the numbers).

Im also planning on adding intermediate fixings by drilling approx 6mm holes through the hull between the main fixing bolts which are on approx 200mm centres and screwing the fender on from inside with 6mm self tappers. This is of course, in addition to the main bolts which this time are M8 slotted panheads in A4 Stainless with penny washers inside to spread the load over elongated holes.

I'm just frying to get the gel coat up to scratch around the gunwales before I refit it but the weather hasn't been conjucive for the last couple of weekends.

Cheers

Chas

-- Edited by chas at 17:59, 2008-11-30

chas · Senior Member

Some pics

-- Edited by chas at 18:12, 2008-11-30

It you notice below the base of the windscreen pillar; the fender is so high that you can see the bottom of the biscuit tin overlap joint!

-- Edited by chas at 18:18, 2008-11-30

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas,

I can see your point. It's a solid D-fender and I remember on my dad's Aqabell it had the same fender and it was fitted in the same way as yours. The joins were far from perfect. I don't know why it is so hard to fit it in a proper way. To replace the gunnel must cost a small fortune now, being solid rubber. But i'm sure that you can do a much better job. with a bit of perserverence. Make sure the rubber you have bought will set in low temperatures.

Regards

Harold.

PS: About 3 weeks ago I have hurt my back and have pretty much been out of action, both for work and restoring the Lochin. That means we won't get her launched now before xmas. Very dissapointing! We are trying now for Jan/Feb. We have started on the deck. Taken the 3 front windows out, pulled them apart and have had the frames powdercoated. The deck has been sanded, now we need regelcoat and detail. We have filled in the hatch above the heads (put in by last owner- didn't look right). Haven;t done any work at all since my back went, but am looking forward to getting into it over xmas break. We will keep you posted.

chas · Senior Member

ELI-FLEX First report

chas · Senior Member

Fender Replacement Update

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

RE: Fender Replacement

chas · Senior Member

Hi Harold and Kelly

My brother helped to get the fender back on just not possible on your own.

I developed a regime for removing it and that is to make a couple of wooden wedges and hammer them in between the fender and the gunwale about 4 inches (100mm) away from the old bolts, just enough to provide clearance for a thin cutting disk in an angle grinder. Then tape them in place with duct tape so that they dont fall in the water, then cut through the old bolt. Once you have cut through a few of the old bolts; tie the loose fender to any piece of suitable hardware with old rope then cut the rest out.

I've started on the port side now and on one piece where there were originally sixteen fixings- nine had already rusted through and one had already been replaced. I don't think that would have done another season.

I haven't been out all winter but I'm hoping to have the port side fender (front two sections) back on in a couple of weeks and then I'm going fishing.

There is a full legnth band around my keel but I always thought it was made of metal, not sure what but there is no sign of corrosion on it.

As far as I know my boat was originally sold to the first owner in Holland as semi complete. It was then bought back to England by or for the second owner where it resided in Poole Harbour and was registered as a British Ship (Torsk of Arne). After that it moved to Shoreham and was used for diving on a semi commercial basis and was renamed to Buccaneer of Portus Adurni. I still have the old registration book.

The pictures show the fendering after it has been sanded with a belt sander.

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas,

Thats a very good idea to use the wedges. That way you don't do too much damage to the gelcoat. Your boat really looks good and shiny as well. Fenders have come up really great, good on you mate!!! Have you taken her out yet for a run?

Cheers

Harold

chas · Senior Member

Cheers Harold!

I haven't been out this year but hopefully we will be finished and going out at Easter.

Cheers

Chas

chas · Senior Member

The two front sections on the port side are back on.

I'm taking Thursday off to sand it. Only a couple of hours work but a bit noisey and dirty and I don't want to p155 any body off over the Easter weekend. After it has been sanded, I only have to polish the gelcoat on the toe boards then fit two new cleats and a big clean up. Hopefully, should be ready to go out on good Friday.

The last two toe boards on the port side are quite beaten up so I'll repair them at a leisuerly pace then remove and re-fit the rearmost fender section.

I won't be touching the bow section untill I've replaced the last of the rusty deck hardware but that will be next winter now.

chas · Senior Member

Well, as it's gone so quiet again on here, I'thought I'd put the closing details in this thread.

I repaired the beaten up toe boards on the port side of the ****pit (thats where the dive ladder used to be) then re-fitted than section of fender sanded and reprofiled it.

And finally, I did the bow section as well so I can now draw a line under the fender replacement job.

One thing that became apparent when I did the job was that the line of deck did not follow the shear knuckle on the hull. I chose to line up the underside of the fender with the shear knuckle and let the top float as I considered the shear knuckle the purer line

You will see that my old rusty bow roller has gone along with the fairleads. After discussion with some of you guys, I decided to go the custom route for my replacement bow roller. I'm having a beefed up and neatened up version of the original made in mirror polished 316 stainless. I'll post some pictures as soon as it's fitted.

She's been lifted out on Tuesday for her annual antifoul etc.

One other pain in the butt, is that the heads outlet sea**** has jammed open and I'm not sure what I'm going to find when I get it apart. If it's too far gone I'll have to replace it. (Blakes).

Martin · Senior Member

Hi Chas

Your boat looks immaculate - better than new. Hope you get as much pleasure using her this year as you have restoring her.

What is after the bow roller? a well earned rest or have you another project to get started on?

Cheers

Martin

chas · Senior Member

Hi Martin

I can assure you that my boat is far from immaculate, photogenic maybe but immaculate; no.

There's quite a few things on my boat that are now considerably better than it was when it was new and I've come to the conclusion that mine was originally assembled by monkeys on a Friday afternoon! Mine was built by Cresta Marine but I'm sure that the Lochin built ones must have been better.

I had some good fun last year (boating not working) and I'm looking forward to more this year.

If I'd have realised how much work was involved in the restoration, I'm not sure I'd have taken it on. The thing is, I had quite a gap in boating, the previous boat I had that I caught so many fish from and had such a good time on was a wreck and compared to that, the Lochin seemed like a gin palace when I bought it.

The next job? I've already got a galley rebuild underway (much of the work there is being done at home) and I want to replace the front bollard, the anchor warp rollers and sooner or later, I want to replace the pulpit rail.

I managed to free the jammed sea**** by the way and was delighted to find it needed little more than a good clean and a regrease.

Cheers

Chas

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas,

Youve done a splendid job on repairing the toe rails. The gunnel also looks good. Good to hear that you ordered some new deck wear. I had the same problem with the sea **** well and truly stuck, but I managed to get it apart and regreased it as you did with yours. Mine was also a Blakes. (Can you still buy them?)

If there is one person who understands about the pain of restoration it would be me! Don't give up!!! Because everytime you look at it it will put a smile on your face.

Keep up the fight!!

Regards

Harold

PS: The other day I finally did a speed trial and she is doing 24 knots and the engine is revving 150 revs over. I suppose I could do with another 1/2 inch of pitch.

chas · Senior Member

Thanks Harold

It's always nice receiving your words of encouragement and wisdom!

The standard way to free stuck Blakes seac0cks seems to be to slacken the retaining bolts then get a hardwood dowell and a big hammer then tap them free from underneath.

Yes, you can still get the Blakes seac0cks, I've ordered the Blakes grease for mine so I'll reassemble them at the weekend.

Giving up on the restoration isn't an option even if I wanted to, It would be very hard to sell a half restored boat. Anyway, I like mine too much and weather permitting, the antifouling etc will be finished this weekend and I'll be back in the water next week.

24 knots sound very good indeed, haven't you got the same hull configuration as mine with the full skeg and the bar under the prop to the rudder?

Cheers and all the best

Chas

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas,

Yes we have the same configuration as yours, a long keel and a beam from the keel to the rudder. I have particularly spent a lot of time getting the balance right. I had 3 heavy batteries (210 kilos) which I moved into the back of the boat. The Yanmar is 12 volt and instead of 1 big battery I bought 2 smaller ones. I still have 1/3 more starting capacity than Yanmar recommends. Then I have 2 house batteries (24 volt). The original boat was all 24 volt. The boat weighs in total about 6700 kgs and I have really tried to keep the weight down.

We have attached some photos of her which were taken only this week.

Keep up the good work.

Regards

Harold

-- Edited by Harold Timmer on Wednesday 24th of March 2010 11:47:49 AM

chas · Senior Member

Looking good Harold, looking very good indeed!

fingers crossed · Senior Member

Hi Harold, Chas and all,
all of your boats look amazing.......certainly as I am still waiting for mine and it would seem so for quite a while yet, but I have been promised a couple more guys that are working on a big cat alongside mine to be on the job in a couple of weeks.........nice to know you have plenty of work on I guess, but the ministry carry more clout than me!!
Harold, your boat is a credit to you and certainly performs well, but I hope my 740 hp gives me another 5 or 6 knots or I will be wishing I stuck with a big single engine.....especially the way fuel is rising again.
Chas, yours is looking very nice too and I bet everyone in this country is busy readying for re-launch if not already, hoping for some good weather and decent fishing!
Will post more photo's soon,
Cheers.
Dave.

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas, Dave and all,

Dave, do you know if your boat will be delivered by the start of the holidays? At 740hp the boat will jump out of the water! It will be very interesting what speed she does.. With twin 300's she does about 28 knots, so who knows?

Chas, have you antifouled your boat and will you be using her over Easter? (If it is not raining and blowing). What's your next project going to be? When will you be getting your stainless steel bits?

We still have to fit our canopy. It is made but not fitted to the boat yet. I've purchased 100 metres of nylon anchor roap and I have to splice 10m of chain to it. We also have to purchase a cooker/griller and we finally found a decent one with a flame failure device fitted. I also have to finish the sound insulation.

Martin, How are you going with your engine removal?

Cheers to all,

Harold

Martin · Senior Member

Hi Harold

I've been working away for a few days surveying at sea so haven't spoken to anyone at the yard yet. Engine was out and found to have a split intercooler. It will be removed and a blanking plate used to cover the hole. I'll lose 5 bhp but it will save me a lot of money. The 280 Sabre has 2 intercoolers anyway. The split had caused lots of salt and muck to get sucked in blocking the airway partially so probably why it was smoking a bit and not getting the 2500 rpm it should have had. They will clean it out and strip and re-build the heat exchanger, service the jabsco and repaint it before refitting. I decided not to paint out the engine bay bilges this time as I wasn't sure of getting it completely clean of oil etc. The paint under the cr*p was really good and I didn't want a layer of paint on top peeling off later on. I will paint the engine bearers and call it done. I opened up the side tanks and cleaned them out of all the sludge and gunk I couldn't get at last year and rebuilt them after making new gaskets so they are ready to use if I want to go on an extended cruise anytime. All in all just waiting for the engine to go in, a quick coat of antifoul and she will be back in the water possibly by Easter if I am lucky.

I am hoping to get a canopy this year too. I have a mate who fabricates stuff for the local mussell farm so he works with stainless tubing all the time. The hard part will be the cover itself, I have been quoted £1000 ! Don't know if my sewing skills would be up to making my own.

Dave - Looking forward to seeing your boat when it is finished.

Have a good Easter all

Martin

chas · Senior Member

Well Gents

I'm happy to report that mine's all ready to go back in!

Also, the heads seac0cks are like silk since I reassembled them with a liberal application of Blakes Seac0ck Grease.

Hopefully my new bow roller will be ready this week so I can fit that and the new fairleads - then I'm going out to play!

Next job? I only have three bits of rusty hardware left, the front bollard and the two rollers for the side mounted capstan so they will be changed fairly soon.

I'm also part way through rebuilding the galley so that's got to be finished.

There's still plenty after that.

Cheers

Chas

kees · Veteran Member

hi Martin,
1000,- pound for a canopy, here the asked Eur. 1000,- ex vat for 3 cushion's
we had them for Eur.200,- for material and Chantal's sewing skills.

good Easter to all.

br,
kees.

Martin · Senior Member

Hi Kees

Tommi is looking good you have done great work. You could start a new business getting Chantal to make canopies.

I have had my bow thruster fitted now. The yard have fitted it slightly higher than yours and Chas' so it sits between the 2 ridges on the hull and maybe a bit further back too. I hope it is in the right place and works OK or it will be a big job to move it again. It is not wired yest so still a few jobs to do.

Cheers

Martin

-- Edited by Martin on Tuesday 30th of March 2010 03:18:38 PM

kees · Veteran Member

hi all,
The (very good) Iveco finally arrived from England, but it was a big disappointment.
the alternator and electric panel apeared to be 12 volt in place of the promised 24 volt, so I had to place the 24 volt alternator from the Perkins as extra on the engine, ending up with 2 alternators now ( and 7 ? hp less for the propellor)
the engine was repainted with a thin layer of acryl paint who was not very oil or solvent resistant, so I cleaned the engine with an aggresive paint thinner to remove all the paint then covered the engine witha layer of epoxy primer and a layer of chemical resistant paint, so I can use a solvent to clean the engine when necessary.
I had to lower the engine fundation 100 mm to meet centre propellorshaft.
after connecting electrical and fuel lines, the Jabsco pump connected to a water tap I could start the engine. The engine started to run on 3 sometimes 4 cylinders but never on 6.
after removing and opening the fuel prime pump, the pump spring appeared to be broken in 3 parts. After repair the engine runs on 6, but a strange noise came out of the turbo. After opening that one, the compressor wheel missed some parts of the vanes, the bearings had 0,5 mm play and the oil seals where gone so far that engine oil was dripping in the compressor housing ( and from there when the engine was running via the intercooler in the inlet manifold)
Off course the company from who I bought this Iveco cannot understand, as it runned very fine at all the testruns they did. Do you believe it ??
after overhauling the turbo(Eur. 489,-- on parts) and cleaning the intercooler the engine starts and runs like a dream now with 7 bar oil pressure, but don't ask me if I trust this engine.
Yesterday the new ordered propellor arrived, so with easter I can make the conical part, clay groove and thread on the propellor shaft and hopefully place it into the boat.
so think of me when you are sailing with easter.

Best Regards,
Kees.

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Chas,

Good to see that everything under the water line is done. It's a great feeling when you've taken things apart yourself (sea ****) so you know it's done the proper way. Your new hardware will look fantastic. Will you be going for a run at easter if the weather is good?

Best wishes

Harold

Harold Timmer · Senior Member

Hi Kees,

Oh dear!! Not a good start with the engine, however, things can be mixed up. Maybe somebody made a mistake and put an non-overhauled turbo on it. Believe me where there are people involved mistakes can be made. I see it everyday around me. I know what you try to say with trust, and it is really dissapointing that some companies will make up stories to suit themselves when things go wrong. I would check oil level on a regular basis in the beginning just to cover. Is there any warranty?

Why 2 alternators? Can't you just delete the 12 volt alt? My boat was originally 24 volt, however, when they put the new Yanmar in, it is 12 volt including the instrument panel and the starter motor.

They put a voltage reducer from "Mastervolt" to charge the 12 volt start batteries. It's a simple setup and I can give you an installation plan if that would help.

Hopefully you will be able to sort things through ok.

All the best,

Harold

PS Don't be dissapointed as I hear they have forcast strong winds and rain for easter here, so we won't be going anywhere either!!

chas · Senior Member

Hi Kees

Your boats looking good but sorry to hear about the problems with your engine.

One thing wrong is bad enough but the company who supplied your engine have shown such a lack of quality control that it borders on criminal neglect.

Name them and shame them Kees then we can all avoid them.

If your boat is wired for 24 volts, you need to keep it at 24 volts because running at 12 volts will double the current draw through every circuit. Thats a fire waiting to happen if things actually work at all. I prsume you bow thruster is 24 volt.

Cheers

Chas

kees · Veteran Member

Hi Chas,
everything on board is 24 volt, except some navigation electronics.
the original 12 v alternator takes care of two starting batteries only. The extra 24 v alternator for one 24 v battery who feeds everything, also the 12 v electronics over a 25 amp converter.
bad things don't come alone, after all the trouble with the engine I started with Easter to make the conical part on the propeller shaft, but when I took dimensions of the new propeller, it appeared that the biggest side of the conical hole was 46,6 mm in place of 45 mm, and a closer look learned that the hole was not round but had 10 corners. I am pretty sure the hole was out of centre also.
Brought the propeller back, but have to wait 2 - 3 weeks for another one.
if it goes on like this, it will be Cristmas before she's back in the water.

regards,
kees.

chas · Senior Member

Hi Kees

This must be driving you mad!

About three years ago, I replaced all the windows in my boat except the ones in the back of the wheelhouse. I went to a well known so called specialist manufacturer of boat windows and out of eight windows, five had to be sent back.

I ordered the windows in three batches the first batch was the three small windows in the front cabin. The fixing holes in these were poorly spaced and I insisted they were re made.

I had only supplied a template of the frame size for these so when I did the templates for the three windscreens I stated the exact fixing dimensions and centres. They followed the drawings and when I received these, I was pleased. I even contacted them to congratulate them on for a good job.

However, their efforts on the side windows went down hill again. I supplied an accurate template on plactic drafting film (so it was stable) and correspondance giving a full explanation of my requirements.

They then sent me a drawing which not only looked wrong but lacked information. I marked up the drawing with my comments, scanned it and sent it back to them along with quite a legnthy e mail and asked them to look again at the template.

I never did get another drawing but the windows eventually turned up and sure enough, they were wrong and weren't as the template.

The battle raged and eventually I got replacements which were as my template but I'd missed another months boating by then.

The MD of that company had the audacity to ask me "if I was actually in the marine business" as if I didn't know what I was talking about. I advised him "no but I'm a professional mechanical engineer with my own consulting practise. We are talking about glass windows in metal frames mounted in composite bulkheads. I am commonly involved with such arrangements maybe not in boats but in biocontainment facilities and if those windows aren't exactly as I specify, we would be in danger of wiping out half of Salisbury".

Stugsy will know exactly who I'm talking about because he had similar problems.

I've become suspicious of any company that has "sea", "boat" or "marine" anywhere in their name.

I did try to reply earlier but I'm not sure if it is this site or my PC but this site seems to have gone on a "go slow". Not sure if anyone else is having problems.

Cheers

Chas